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Practical, research-informed articles about skincare — written by the SmartChoice Hub Editorial Team and powered by Soro to help you make better decisions.

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Cleansing

Double Cleansing: What It Is, Who Needs It, and How to Do It

5 min readUpdated 20 January 2025

Published by SmartChoice Hub Editorial Team

Double cleansing uses two different types of cleanser in sequence to remove everything from your skin without over-stripping it. Here is how it works and whether you need it.

What Is Double Cleansing?

Double cleansing is a two-step face-washing method that originated in Korean and Japanese skincare. The first step uses an oil-based cleanser (such as a cleansing oil, balm or micellar water) to dissolve oil-based impurities like sunscreen, makeup and excess sebum. The second step uses a water-based cleanser (such as a gel or cream cleanser) to remove any remaining residue and water-soluble dirt.

Why One Cleanser May Not Be Enough

Modern sunscreens — especially water-resistant formulas — are designed to adhere to the skin and resist removal. A single water-based cleanser may not fully dissolve these products, which can lead to clogged pores or a dull, filmy feeling on the skin. Oil-based cleansers are effective at breaking down these oil-based products, but they often benefit from a follow-up rinse with a water-based cleanser to leave the skin truly clean.

Who Should Double Cleanse?

Double cleansing is most beneficial for people who wear sunscreen daily (which should ideally be everyone), use makeup, or live in environments with high pollution. If you have very dry or sensitive skin and find that two cleansers feel like too much, you can limit double cleansing to your evening routine. In the morning, a single gentle cleanser — or even just water — is usually sufficient.

How to Choose Your Two Cleansers

For the first step, choose a cleansing oil, cleansing balm or micellar water. Look for one that emulsifies with water so it rinses clean without leaving a greasy residue. For the second step, choose a gentle water-based cleanser suited to your skin type — a cream cleanser for dry or sensitive skin, or a gel cleanser for oily or combination skin. The two products should complement each other, not double up on the same active ingredients.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common double cleansing mistake is choosing a first-step cleanser that does not emulsify and leaves oily residue behind. Another mistake is using two harsh cleansers, which strips the skin barrier. Double cleansing should leave your skin feeling clean and comfortable — not tight, dry or irritated. If you experience any of these signs, your cleanser combination may be too stripping for your skin type.

Double Cleansing Method

Two-step cleansing for thorough yet gentle removal

Step 1 -- Oil Phase
1

Oil-Based Cleanser

Dissolves sunscreen, makeup and excess sebum

Emulsify with water, then rinse
Step 2 -- Water Phase
2

Water-Based Cleanser

Removes remaining residue, sweat and dirt

Clean, refreshed skin ready for treatment

Quick Takeaway

Oil cleansers dissolve oil-based impurities (sunscreen, makeup). Water cleansers handle the rest. Together they leave skin truly clean without stripping.
Sun Protection

How to Read Sunscreen Labels: SPF, PA, and Broad Spectrum Explained

6 min readUpdated 25 January 2025

Published by SmartChoice Hub Editorial Team

Sunscreen labels are full of numbers and abbreviations. Here is what SPF, PA, broad spectrum, UVA and UVB actually mean — and what to look for when choosing.

What SPF Actually Measures

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) measures how well a sunscreen protects against UVB rays — the rays primarily responsible for sunburn. An SPF 30 sunscreen, when applied correctly, blocks approximately 97% of UVB rays. SPF 50 blocks about 98%. The difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50 is small in percentage terms, but the higher number does offer marginally more protection. No sunscreen blocks 100% of UV radiation.

UVA vs UVB: What Is the Difference?

UVB rays cause sunburn and are strongest during peak sun hours. UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin and are associated with premature ageing and long-term skin damage. UVA rays are present year-round, even on cloudy days. A sunscreen that only protects against UVB (which SPF alone measures) leaves you exposed to UVA damage. This is why broad-spectrum protection matters.

What "Broad Spectrum" Means

A sunscreen labelled "broad spectrum" protects against both UVA and UVB rays. In the US, the FDA requires sunscreens to pass a specific test to carry this label. In Europe, the UVA protection must be at least one-third of the SPF value. In practice, "broad spectrum" is the minimum you should look for in any daily sunscreen.

Understanding PA Ratings

The PA rating system (Protection Grade of UVA) is used primarily in Asian sunscreens. It ranges from PA+ (some UVA protection) to PA++++ (very high UVA protection). PA++++ is the highest grade and roughly indicates a UVA protection factor (UVAPF) of 16 or more. When choosing an Asian sunscreen, PA+++ or PA++++ is generally recommended for daily use.

How Much Sunscreen to Apply

Sunscreen testing uses 2mg per square centimetre of skin. For the face alone, this translates to roughly two finger-lengths of product (the "two-finger rule") or about a quarter teaspoon. Most people significantly under-apply sunscreen, which reduces the effective protection well below the labelled SPF. Reapplication every two hours during sun exposure is also necessary, as sunscreen breaks down over time.

Understanding UV Protection

What the numbers and labels actually mean

B

UVB Rays

Cause sunburn. SPF number measures UVB protection. SPF 30 blocks ~97% of UVB.

A

UVA Rays

Penetrate deeper. Cause premature ageing. Present year-round, even on cloudy days.

Broad Spectrum

Protects against both UVA + UVB. Look for this label on every sunscreen you buy.

PA++++

PA Rating

Asian UVA grading system. PA++++ = highest UVA protection. Look for PA+++ or PA++++.

Apply 2 finger-lengths for the face. Reapply every 2 hours during sun exposure.

The Two-Finger Rule

Apply two finger-lengths of sunscreen just for your face. Most people use far too little, which significantly reduces protection.
Actives

Starting Retinol: A Practical Guide for Beginners

5 min readUpdated 1 February 2025

Published by SmartChoice Hub Editorial Team

Retinol is one of the most effective skincare ingredients, but starting wrong can cause irritation. Here is how to introduce it safely.

What Retinol Does

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that promotes skin cell turnover. Over time, consistent use can help with fine lines, uneven skin texture, dark spots and mild acne. It is one of the most well-studied skincare ingredients with decades of published research supporting its use. However, retinol is not an overnight fix — visible results typically take 8–12 weeks of consistent use.

Choosing the Right Strength

If you have never used retinol before, start with a low concentration — around 0.25% to 0.3%. This allows your skin to build tolerance gradually. Products that use encapsulated retinol (such as CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum) tend to be gentler because the active ingredient is released slowly. After 2–3 months with no significant irritation, you can consider moving to 0.5%. Concentrations above 0.5% are best approached with caution.

How to Introduce Retinol Safely

Start by using retinol just once or twice a week in the evening, after cleansing and before moisturiser. Over the course of 4–6 weeks, gradually increase to every other night and eventually to nightly use if your skin tolerates it. The "sandwich method" — applying moisturiser before and after retinol — can help buffer the active ingredient and reduce irritation during the adjustment period.

Common Side Effects and How to Manage Them

Dryness, mild peeling and slight redness are normal during the first few weeks of retinol use — this is sometimes called the "retinisation" period. These side effects usually subside as your skin adjusts. To manage them, keep your routine simple: a gentle cleanser, the retinol, and a good moisturiser. Avoid combining retinol with other strong actives (such as AHAs, BHAs or vitamin C) until your skin has fully adjusted.

Sunscreen Is Non-Negotiable

Retinol increases your skin's sensitivity to UV radiation. If you use retinol, you must use sunscreen every morning — at least SPF 30, broad spectrum. This is not optional. Without sunscreen, retinol can actually make sun-related skin damage worse rather than better. Apply retinol only in the evening and protect your skin during the day.

Starting Retinol Safely

A gradual approach to avoid irritation

1

Weeks 1-2: Introduction

Apply 1-2x per week. Use a low concentration (0.25-0.3%). Apply after moisturiser to buffer.

2

Weeks 3-6: Building Tolerance

Increase to every other night if no irritation. Monitor for dryness, peeling or redness.

3

Weeks 7-12: Consistency

Use most evenings. Your skin should be adjusting. First results may begin to appear.

4

Ongoing: Maintenance

Continue nightly use. Always use SPF 30+ every morning. Results improve over months.

Sunscreen is essential. Retinol increases UV sensitivity. Always apply broad-spectrum SPF 30+ every morning.

Important

Always use SPF 30+ every morning when using retinol. Start with a low concentration and build up gradually over several weeks.